Barrel Select - because there is a difference

The Princess Pinot Noir; from Oregon to the Central Coast



Liquid Silk - that's what good Pinot tastes like... pinotgrapes



Monthly Highlights

Ken Wright Cellars

Copain

Littorai

Siduri

Lane Tanner

Good Pinot can be persnickety to grow, and as fussy as all those Disney Princesses combined. Yet, this high maintenance Princess never fails to capture the heart of her Prince.

Pinot Noir seems to reflect the land from which it comes, more so than the other black grapes, which means vineyard sight selection is key to making good Pinot. Like all Princesses she needs a very good home with plenty of the right light for her fair skin. And there are only so many places that are capable of growing good Pinot (like most Princesses she's picky about where she will call home, always needing to be at her finest).

Shining best when the vineyards slope gently down towards the East, allowing the vines to luxuriate in ample sun exposure while avoiding the sweltering afternoon heat. She requires well-drained soils too, which have a higher average temperature playing to the ripening process. This princess is susceptible to spring frost so Mother Nature has to be on her side. If there's a vine disease out there, Pinot is susceptible to it (poison apples included). Not only do we wine nerds love it, but birds recognize a good thing when they see it too. During harvest timing is of the essence. Pamper her and pick her promptly when she is mature or the tender berries and fair skin of this maiden will dry out fast resulting in an "unfortunate" Pinot experience - one that will dash the hopes of the Prince in pursuit.

Starting in Oregon - we'll take you on a little Pinot Noir tour heading south...

 

Introduction

 

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Oregon

Ken Wright 2006 Pinot Noir Canary Hill Vyd
91 Points, IWC

Ken Wright is the foremost producer of Pinot in Oregon. Canary Hill is located at the southern end of the Eola Hills in Willamette Valley. It faces southeast and sits at an elevation of 450 ft to 550 ft. Ken makes wines that express the place; since he's been making wines from Oregon for nearly 20 years now, one might say he's pioneered sight specific Pinot from Oregon. These wines are stupendous. "Vivid red color. Spicy red berry and cherry scents, with nervy blood orange and pomegranate qualities adding energy. Vivacious and sharply focused, with bright mineral lift to the redcurrant and bitter cherry flavors. Gains depth and sweetness on the long, juicy finish. Wright bought this vineyard in December of 2006.

$83.21/bt
6 bt/cs

 

Next Stop Mendocino County - California...

Copain 2006 Pinot Noir Cerise Vyd, Anderson Valley

Cultishly small, freakishly fabulous - people who are into wine know what Wells Guthrie is up to and follow his wines (just ask Michael...). Cerise Vineyard is located in Bonneville in Anderson Valley, perched high above the town. This vineyard produces intense hillside Pinot that is farmed organically! The 2006 Cerise produced only 328 cases and is what Wells considers the finest Cerise to date, one that has a good 8 -10 years of life in it. Considering the 2004 got 91 points, those are big words to bank on - but Wells knows his wines. Wet earth, fresh mushroom, slate and sour cherry dominate on the nose. Subtle tanned leather and pomegranate character emerge after a while. It is pure and bright in the mouth mirroring the aromatics on the palate. With patience and time in the glass the supple textures shines.

$69.22/bt
12bt/cs

 

 

 

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Sonoma Coast....

Littorai 2006 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

Ted Lemon, a "Pinot Noir God Among Men," is still, to the best of my knowledge, the only American to become winemaker and vineyard manager in Burgundy's history when he arrived at Domain Roulot to take over. Quite an auspicious way to jump start one's winemaking career. His Pinot Noirs and Chardonnay's are highly lauded and very age worthy (despite propaganda that says Cali Pinot's and Chards don't age.) Some consider them amongst the finest in the New World. Since Littorai is the latin plural form of the coast, you might say Lemon's wines are living on the edge - at least the majority of his vines are planted on the dramatically cool, western part of Sonoma Coast. Parker raves, "all of the Littorai offerings, made by Ted Lemon, are nuanced, restrained, elegant efforts that are no doubt the result of his Burgundian winemaking experience at Domaine Roulot."

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The 5th vintage of Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir showcases Hirsch Vineyard fruit, as it's dominant source. The wine is soft and supple with great fresh fruit intensity. This is as close to being a fruit bomb, as Littorai will ever put forth with notes of cherry, raspberry coulis, meaty notes and red-hot candies (seriously). To truly allow this wine to sing, decant it first. Moderate tannins, and richness are balanced by excellent acidity that leaves the finish long and fresh.

$74.01/bt
6bt/cs

Down to the Mid Peninsula we go...

Siduri 2006 Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir

Siduri is the Babylonian goddess of wine, and is also the name of thesmall winery located in Santa Rosa in Sonoma County California, owned by two wonderful people, Adam & Dianna Lee. Their passion for Pinot Noir is evident in every bottle they produce - and Pinot is all they make under the Siduri label! If the Lee's were in France (which they most certainly are not) they would be referred to as "negociants", because they don't own any grapes they are more like "vignerons" with long term contracts with some of the finest Vineyards in the USA. One might consider some of these vineyards to be the American version of "Grand Cru" vineyards.

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This wine comes from a blend of vineyard Pinot located in the Santa Lucia Highlands in Monterey County. A large percentage comes from Pisoni vineyard fruit (with the balance coming from Gary's vyd and Rosella's vyd.) Pisoni gives the blend its great fruit concentration, while the Gary's and Rosellas fruit seems to lift or liven everything up. And if I must say, this wine is drinking marvelously right now... she's a beauty - really impressive and already well evolved. Richly aromatic - think dried cherries, red plums, smoke, roasted grains and hints of strawberry with flavours mirrors the aromas. Ample and forthcoming, this Pinot finishes long and supple - generous to the end. Imagine lingering impressions of richly layered cherry-strawberry fruit married to appealing mineral and oak derived accents. Makes me thirsty just describing it to you... this wine is giving itself up now, no need to lay it down, though a few more years certainly won't hurt it.

$63.33/bt
12 bt/cs

 

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Our last stop is with the lovely Lane Tanner, in Santa Maria Valley in the Central Coast Region of California...

Lane Tanner 2006 Pinot Noir Bien Nacido Vyd
91 Points WE, and Burghound.com

460 cases were hand crafted by the one woman show called Lane Tanner. She is fun-loving and charming, and the 2006 might possibly be her best vintage ever, according to some. She strives for elegance and restraint in her Pinot and avoids high and intrusive alcohol at all costs. She employs a judicious application of oak, as well as keeping sulfite levels very low. Her feminine touch is evident for she is known to pick her grapes in advance of others, feeling that "grapes want to become wine, and her job is to get out of their way and gently guide them to this end”. Sourced from Bien Nacido N Block, Bien Nacido has become one of the best-known vineyards in Santa Maria Appellation. N Block vines are Martini clones on their own roots, planted in 1973. This is pure Pinot pleasure. Fresh, vibrant and beautifully balanced with riper darker fruits and nuanced hints of earth. Reserved acidity is flattered by lush and layered intense fruit and finishes with a "memorable kiss of black raspberry."

$52.30/bt
12 bt/cs

Ending Comments

So our feminine heroine, Pinot Noir, as finicky and fickle as she is, has found many a home up and down the West Coast, fit for a Princess, one might say. We are offering you many examples of various terrior and the regional influences on this enchanting grape. Now the tough part, your mission, should you accept, is in deciding which of the Princesses playgrounds tugs at your heart the most... with so many Pinot's and so much to discover - we hope you have enjoyed our Pinot Noir tour.

Last stop on the tour, your glass!


Daun

169 Carlton Street, Toronto, ON M5A 2K3 Tel 416.984.Wine(9463) Fax 416.923.2537

© Barrel Select 2006

* All prices are net of gst.
** Please note, all prices quoted are Retail pricing and are subject to change. Please contact your sales associate for our licensee pricing if you are a restaurant or licensed establishment or consult your licensee price list.
***All cases come in 12 bottle format unless otherwise specified.